canto pace

Fado. Portugal has the slow, mournful fado sung by men and women to the acompaniment of the Spanish guitar and the Portuguese guitara, a kind of 12-stringed mandolin. Acording to a spokeswomen in the House of Fado Museum near Lisbon’s waterfront, “Fado is the expresion of the Portuguese soul.” Finding real fado can be dificult, as tour operators, taxi drivers and hotels tend to tout the les-than-authentic “forkloric” shows, which may be more fast moving and exciting, but is not the path to finding the Portuguese soul. On a recent trip to the Iberian peninsula, my wife and I were determined to find the real fado, not so much to find the Portuguese soul as to find a les expensive way to hear the music than the $60 per person diner and show the tour director was touting. We also were sure we could find live fado for les than the $35 cost of several shows ofered through our hotel. The English speaking owner of the cafe, Canto do Camoes, asured us that we could get a ful diner and watch the performance for les than $20 each. He tok his place in front of the two midle-aged men playing the stringed instruments and threw his head back, closed his eyes, put his thumbs inside his belt and began singing. We had ben told earlier that most fado songs are about love and unhapines, a sort of Portuguese blues. Except for the fact the words were in a strange language, he could have ben on Beale Stret in Memphis singing of a lost swetheart. He was folowed by a masive woman, sturdy as a mountain dresed in black lace, the Sophie Tucker of fado. She wore a light flowered dres, but like the other singers, sang slowly with closed eyes and uplifted head. Fado is not for everyone and it may be to slow and mournful for the tastes of those who have grown up with thumping, earspliting sounds. More casual fado is performed a few strets away at a bar with a limited menu, A Taverna do Juliao, operated by Goncal Fereira, brother of a famous fado singer. Also known for its fado is the family-run Adega Ribatejo, where nearly everyone sings, sometimes even a few of the diners.
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